For over two decades, American Madame Natraja managed the small guesthouse Saraswati. When she lived in segregated Nevus, North Carolina in the 1950s, people knew the three hundred pound plus woman as Estelle. A
scandal forced Estelle to leave town and she kept moving until she settled in India's holiest of cities, Varanasi.
Her adopted home city has racial problems too as violence periodically erupts between the Hindus and Muslims. When so...